Minute Repeater John Shaeffer | 25839 | Platinum
This is one of 6 examples of the John Shaeffer reference 25839* with a 33.5mm platinum case designed by Jacqueline Dimier. Created for a single year between 1996 and 1997, this reference with a total production of just 18 pieces really was a brief and distinct moment in time. The other 12 examples of the reference were crafted in yellow and rose gold. It features a jump hour display paired with a regulator-style minutes indication. At its heart lies the manually wound minute repeater calibre 2865, designed and created by famed specialists Renaud et Papi.
A circular history
The modern John Shaeffer line was the result of two chapters of Audemars Piguet history converging.
One was of course watch No. 11643, created in 1908 and retailed in 1915. The watch was personalised for John Wallace Shaeffer, then vice president of Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation based in the US-state of New Jersey. Key to the watch’s proposition was the cushion-shaped case crafted from white and yellow gold, the minute repeater complication and the dial – it spelt out John Shaeffer, with the 12 letters of the name replacing the hour markers. It was powered by a 12 ligne circular movement with finger-style bridges and twin hammers and fit its case perfectly. The watch was auctioned in New York in 1989, bringing it back to prominence. It inspired Audemars Piguet veteran designer Jacqueline Dimier to create a family of references ranging from simple time-only to star wheel and guichet displays as well as perpetual calendar minute repeaters all featuring the signature cushion case in a host of precious metals as well as in titanium. Measuring 33.5mm across, they were faithful to the dimensions of the original. The John Shaeffer, which was resurrected as a line in 1995, was short-lived with examples produced only till 1998. In these years, 670 cushion cased watches were produced. However, of these, only 209 were minute repeaters – these form the core of the John Shaeffer references.
Which brings us to the other source of inspiration – the small, minute repeater calibres Audemars Piguet created in the pre-WWII era. These inspired Audemars Piguet, starting in the late 1980s, to seek the help of movement specialists Renaud et Papi to create a new minute repeater calibre. Giulio Papi was said to be particularly motivated by the challenge of creating a calibre small enough to fit inside a women’s watch.
What resulted was the 9 ¾ ligne calibre 2865 that became the basis of Audemars Piguet’s modern minute repeater references. It was first fitted to the rectangular-cased reference 25765 before powering the minute repeater references of the resurrected John Shaeffer line.
The John Shaeffer reference 25839 seen here is one of the rarest iterations in this family, with just 18 examples produced between 1996 and 1997. Equal numbers were created in yellow and rose gold and platinum. It features a jump hour display paired with a regulator-style minutes indication.
The case
This example’s features a 33.5mm platinum case that stands 9mm tall. The flat top of the bezel is vertically brushed with the finish giving way to a rounded, polished profile. The bezel meets a wonderfully satinated midcase that is pleasing to the touch. The lugs, that flow organically from the midcase, are similarly finished. The midcase is home to the signed and knurled crown and its counterpart on the left flank is the polished minute repeater slider. The exhibition caseback too features a polished, rounded profile and a flat top that is vertically brushed. This last part is detailed with the case number, precious metal hallmarks, the serial number out of 6 and the words ‘repetition minutes’.
The lugs stands 20mm apart and come fitted with a fresh, large-grained brown leather strap secured by a signed platinum pin buckle.
The dial
The restrained eggshell dial is graduated with a printed, Breguet-style Arabic minutes chapter at intervals of five. The minutes in between are denoted by printed dashes. Plying this chapter is a black, cathedral-style minutes indicator. Just below the Audemars Piguet mark in the northern half of the dial is the window with the jumping hours display. The wheel is colour-matched to the dial, with black printed Arabic hours. The form of the printed subsidiary seconds chapter mirrors the cushion shape of the case. It features a sector layout with printed Arabic markers at intervals of 10.
Movement decoration
Framed by the display caseback is the nicely-finished manually wound calibre 2865. It features finger-style bridges for the wheels of the going train, with the escapement bridge topped with black-polished stainless-steel. The two hammers of the minute repeater are also similarly finished. The bevelled edges of the bridges feature anglage while on the top they are decorated with Côtes de Genève. The minute repeater gong runs the periphery of the movement. The mainspring bridge wears gold engraving detailing that the movement is adjusted to five positions while the bridge anchoring the crown wheel bears the jewel count (34).
The twin hammers strike the gong to create a clear sonnerie that reverberates out of the platinum case. The sound signature is distinct yet it feels like a discrete, personal reminder of the passage of time.
The essence
The John Shaeffer reissue marries many storied elements of Audemars Piguet history in a package that is faithful to the original that gives the line its name. That the minute repeater references in the line were produced for such a brief period and in scarce numbers, make them all the more coveted. Within this context, the reference 25839, with its pleasing balance of classicality and modern practicality, is especially attractive.
Closer look
| Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
| Model: | Minute Repeater John Shaeffer ref. 25839 |
| Movement: | manual-winding calibre 2865B |
| Functions: | minute repeater, jump hour, minutes, sub-seconds |
| Features: | display back |
| Case material: | platinum |
| Case diameter: | 32mm x 32mm |
| Case thickness: |
10mm |
| Lug-to-lug: |
41mm |
| Crystal: | sapphire front & back |
| Strap: | brown alligator strap, Audemars Piguet platinum pin buckle |
| Lug width: | 20 x 16mm |
| Year: | N/A |
Condition
This Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater John Shaeffer is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material. The dial shows signs of age consistent with that of the period, the movement is free from any signs of imperfections and has been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.
Warranty
The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.
Original: $147,575.89
-70%$147,575.89
$44,272.77
Description
This is one of 6 examples of the John Shaeffer reference 25839* with a 33.5mm platinum case designed by Jacqueline Dimier. Created for a single year between 1996 and 1997, this reference with a total production of just 18 pieces really was a brief and distinct moment in time. The other 12 examples of the reference were crafted in yellow and rose gold. It features a jump hour display paired with a regulator-style minutes indication. At its heart lies the manually wound minute repeater calibre 2865, designed and created by famed specialists Renaud et Papi.
A circular history
The modern John Shaeffer line was the result of two chapters of Audemars Piguet history converging.
One was of course watch No. 11643, created in 1908 and retailed in 1915. The watch was personalised for John Wallace Shaeffer, then vice president of Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation based in the US-state of New Jersey. Key to the watch’s proposition was the cushion-shaped case crafted from white and yellow gold, the minute repeater complication and the dial – it spelt out John Shaeffer, with the 12 letters of the name replacing the hour markers. It was powered by a 12 ligne circular movement with finger-style bridges and twin hammers and fit its case perfectly. The watch was auctioned in New York in 1989, bringing it back to prominence. It inspired Audemars Piguet veteran designer Jacqueline Dimier to create a family of references ranging from simple time-only to star wheel and guichet displays as well as perpetual calendar minute repeaters all featuring the signature cushion case in a host of precious metals as well as in titanium. Measuring 33.5mm across, they were faithful to the dimensions of the original. The John Shaeffer, which was resurrected as a line in 1995, was short-lived with examples produced only till 1998. In these years, 670 cushion cased watches were produced. However, of these, only 209 were minute repeaters – these form the core of the John Shaeffer references.
Which brings us to the other source of inspiration – the small, minute repeater calibres Audemars Piguet created in the pre-WWII era. These inspired Audemars Piguet, starting in the late 1980s, to seek the help of movement specialists Renaud et Papi to create a new minute repeater calibre. Giulio Papi was said to be particularly motivated by the challenge of creating a calibre small enough to fit inside a women’s watch.
What resulted was the 9 ¾ ligne calibre 2865 that became the basis of Audemars Piguet’s modern minute repeater references. It was first fitted to the rectangular-cased reference 25765 before powering the minute repeater references of the resurrected John Shaeffer line.
The John Shaeffer reference 25839 seen here is one of the rarest iterations in this family, with just 18 examples produced between 1996 and 1997. Equal numbers were created in yellow and rose gold and platinum. It features a jump hour display paired with a regulator-style minutes indication.
The case
This example’s features a 33.5mm platinum case that stands 9mm tall. The flat top of the bezel is vertically brushed with the finish giving way to a rounded, polished profile. The bezel meets a wonderfully satinated midcase that is pleasing to the touch. The lugs, that flow organically from the midcase, are similarly finished. The midcase is home to the signed and knurled crown and its counterpart on the left flank is the polished minute repeater slider. The exhibition caseback too features a polished, rounded profile and a flat top that is vertically brushed. This last part is detailed with the case number, precious metal hallmarks, the serial number out of 6 and the words ‘repetition minutes’.
The lugs stands 20mm apart and come fitted with a fresh, large-grained brown leather strap secured by a signed platinum pin buckle.
The dial
The restrained eggshell dial is graduated with a printed, Breguet-style Arabic minutes chapter at intervals of five. The minutes in between are denoted by printed dashes. Plying this chapter is a black, cathedral-style minutes indicator. Just below the Audemars Piguet mark in the northern half of the dial is the window with the jumping hours display. The wheel is colour-matched to the dial, with black printed Arabic hours. The form of the printed subsidiary seconds chapter mirrors the cushion shape of the case. It features a sector layout with printed Arabic markers at intervals of 10.
Movement decoration
Framed by the display caseback is the nicely-finished manually wound calibre 2865. It features finger-style bridges for the wheels of the going train, with the escapement bridge topped with black-polished stainless-steel. The two hammers of the minute repeater are also similarly finished. The bevelled edges of the bridges feature anglage while on the top they are decorated with Côtes de Genève. The minute repeater gong runs the periphery of the movement. The mainspring bridge wears gold engraving detailing that the movement is adjusted to five positions while the bridge anchoring the crown wheel bears the jewel count (34).
The twin hammers strike the gong to create a clear sonnerie that reverberates out of the platinum case. The sound signature is distinct yet it feels like a discrete, personal reminder of the passage of time.
The essence
The John Shaeffer reissue marries many storied elements of Audemars Piguet history in a package that is faithful to the original that gives the line its name. That the minute repeater references in the line were produced for such a brief period and in scarce numbers, make them all the more coveted. Within this context, the reference 25839, with its pleasing balance of classicality and modern practicality, is especially attractive.
Closer look
| Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
| Model: | Minute Repeater John Shaeffer ref. 25839 |
| Movement: | manual-winding calibre 2865B |
| Functions: | minute repeater, jump hour, minutes, sub-seconds |
| Features: | display back |
| Case material: | platinum |
| Case diameter: | 32mm x 32mm |
| Case thickness: |
10mm |
| Lug-to-lug: |
41mm |
| Crystal: | sapphire front & back |
| Strap: | brown alligator strap, Audemars Piguet platinum pin buckle |
| Lug width: | 20 x 16mm |
| Year: | N/A |
Condition
This Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater John Shaeffer is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material. The dial shows signs of age consistent with that of the period, the movement is free from any signs of imperfections and has been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.
Warranty
The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.
