This is one of the examples of Pascal Coyon’s primary attempt at creating a highly finished chronometre. Featuring the calibre 1900, a thoroughly upgraded and hand-finished iteration of a Unitas pocket watch ébauche, it is paired with a 41mm stainless steel case and a white lacquer dial. This iteration of the calibre, in a rose gold finish, was made in a series of 20 pieces. It comes with chronometre certification from the Besançon observatory.

Based in the south-western French port city of Bayonne, Pascal Coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. He was a student of the famed Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, which has produced many of France's best watchmakers.

From concept to production, Coyon created the calibre 1900 in a year and a half. It is based on the pocket watch calibre Unitas 6498. He extensively redesigned it, his aesthetic guided by famed pocket watch calibres such as the Longines 19.70 from the early 20th century.

Visible through the exhibition caseback, this example of the movement wears frosted rose gold finishing and is designated calibre 1900C. Coyon offered this movement in two other finishes – yellow gold gilt and rhodium plated. Each variant was produced in a series of 20 pieces. Each calibre was engraved with the serial number of the watch. In total, 60 examples of the Chronomètre series were produced.

The industrial aspects of the Unitas 6498 are entirely lost. In its place is a main bridge with flamboyant, flowing edges, while the third and fourth wheels of the going train are anchored by individual bridges that are wave-like in their form. The escape wheel bridge also has a similar architecture and is topped by a stainless steel cap that has been expertly black polished. The edges of the bridges wear wide anglage, mirror polished beautifully.

The finger-style balance bridge is topped by a regulator index that is black polished, as is the winding click. The crown and ratchet wheels are solarised. Closer examination reveals a viper’s head hallmark on the baseplate, between the balance bridge and the regulator – it marks it as chronometre as certified by the Besançon observatory. As with every piece in the Chronomètre series, this watch comes with certification paperwork attesting to this.

The laser engraving of the brand mark, serial number, and country of origin on the bridges and baseplate bring to mind an Art Nouveau style. This is true of the crown as well, which is signed with the watchmaker’s initials.

While clients could choose between a couple of sizes and styles, this example features the more conservative 41mm diameter stainless steel case. It features a thin, rounded bezel, slim midcase with a faceted detail, and display caseback that is also faceted. All aspects are high polished. The lugs that originate from the midcase are flat with sharp edges. Their 20mm gap is furnished by a black leather strap secured by a simple pin buckle.

The white lacquer dial is reminiscent of those found on timepieces created for the railways. It includes the optional red 12 hour marker, a colour detail that is repeated on the 60 second mark on the subsidiary register. This watch comes with an additional dial without this detail. The lustrous printed black Arabic hours are paired with a chemin de fer track of minutes, with the layout repeated in the subsidiary seconds register. The blued hands are Breguet-style.

In addition to its chronometre certification, the watch comes with its box and original bill of sale.

While Coyon subsequently developed a calibre of his own design (the calibre 19), this seminal effort represents a rare proposition in the world of independent watchmaker – an affordable chronometre finished manually to a high standard.

Closer look

Brand:	Pascal Coyon
Model:	Chronomètre
Movement:	manual-winding calibre 1900
Functions:	hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Features:	display back
Case material:	stainless steel
Case diameter:	41mm
Case thickness:	11.5mm
Lug-to-lug:	49mm
Crystal:	sapphire front & back
Strap:	saffiano strap from our own collection,Pascal Coyon stainless steel pin buckle
Lug width:	20 x 16mm
Year:	2017
Accompanying materials:	Pascal Coyon wooden box, Observatoire de Besançon card (signed, stamped & dated), L'Observatoire de Besançon booklet, copy of original invoice

Condition

This Pascal Coyon Chronomètre is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show superficial marks from moderate wear over time, more specifically a mark on the lower right lug. The white lacquer dial, hands, and rose gold finished movement is free from any signs of imperfections and has been well preserved.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.

Pascal Coyon

Chronomètre | Stainless Steel