This is one of 10 examples of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2* with a 44mm rose gold case and two-part black enamel dial. Introduced in 2020, the reference was the first example from the resurrected name to feature a conventional time display. The aesthetic borrows inspiration from the pioneering watchmaker and scientist Ferdinand Berthoud’s 18th century Marine Clock no. 6. Powering this watch is the manually wound calibre FB-RE.FC, which features a proprietary chain and fusée design and a remontoire device with a Reuleaux triangle.

Ferdinand Berthoud was one of the most prominent names in the context of 18th century watchmaking and science. He was especially motivated to creating robust and reliable marine chronometres to aid global exploration. Berthoud’s Marine Clock no. 6 and no. 8 were sea-tested in 1768, and the results were so positive that he was awarded the royal charter of Clockmaker and Mechanic to the French King and his navy.

It is the Marine Clock no. 6 – a watch that was cased in a cylinder mounted on a gyroscope – that serves as inspiration for the FB 2RE.2, a watch from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The historic name was revived in 2013 under the leadership of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard. FB 2RE.2 presents a distinctly classical and understated expression of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, notable as the first watch to deviate from the regulateur dial layout the brand had championed since 2013.

Central to the FB 2RE.2 is the calibre FB-RE.FC spread out across two tiers, the powertrain laid out in an exceptionally logical and aesthetic way. The top tier, visible through the display caseback, features the mainspring, chain and fusée mechanism and the balance, each occupying with a similar scale and visual footprint.

The chain and fusée mechanism is anchored by a single pivot, originating on the lower level of the baseplate. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud holds the patent for this single pivot architecture.

Sitting atop the chain and fusée is a Maltese cross stop work that prevents the mainspring from unwinding past the 50 hours of reserve. Beyond this, any latent power in the mainspring is judged to be unsuitable to linear chronometry. Between the mainspring and chain is the arrow-shaped bridge that anchors the free-sprung balance. The escapement pallet fork lies beneath the aureate balance wheel.

Sitting atop the escapement wheel is the component of this construction that stands out the most – the Reuleaux triangle. This curved equilateral triangle acts as a cam here, controlling the movement of the pallets that stop and engae the remontoire wheel. Attributed to 19th-century German mechanical engineer Franz Reuleaux, the Reuleaux triangle is part of the Reuleaux polygons which all share the unique quality of having a constant diameter. This allows the tines of the fork in which it sits to remain in constant contact with the cam as it rotates and shifts the pallets with each rotation.

The 15-tooth Swiss-lever escape wheel is mounted co-axially with a three-toothed escape wheel. The two are linked by a hairspring. The Swiss lever escape wheel also has atop it a Reuleaux triangle cam that is coupled with a two-pronged fork. The movement of this triangular jewel cam, through this fork, governs the rate of the three-toothed remontoire wheel, giving the watch its deadbeat trait. This remontoire also ensures that a steady rate of energy is passed through the 15-tooth Swiss lever escape wheel to the balance, steadying amplitude, which of course aids chronometry.

Such a remontoire device, employing the Reuleaux triangle, was first envisioned by Robert Gafner, an educator at the watchmaking school in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the first half of the 20th century. In the more recent context, it was central to British watchmaker Derek Pratt’s innovations.

Also on this level are the keyless works and the arc of the power reserve indicator. The finishing is exceedingly well executed. Stainless steel components of the keyless works, balance bridge and the tip of the escapement bridge are black polished. More unusually, this mirror-polish is extended to the inner wall of the case. The effect is subtle, and reflects the engraved details of the brand mark, jewel count (58 rubies) and country of origin as well as the power reserve and the escapement, further amplifying the view of the movement side.

Fine anglage is applied everywhere from the balance bridge to the chain and fusée arrangement and the inner angles of the mainspring wheel. Even smaller components, such as the Malteste cross stop work and the plaque that bears the serial number out of 10 received such fine finishing. The top of the visible screws are blacked polished and they feature mirror-finished countersinks. Sandwiched between this level of the movement and the dial are the wheels of the drive train, which can be glimpsed through the aperture on the midcase.

The 44mm rose gold case, standing 14mm tall, has a robust, even industrial construction, elevated by fine finishes. The polished concave bezel meets a horizontally satinated midcase, with this latter finish extending to the partially hooded lugs. The lugs in fact are screwed on to the midcase, with the joints displayed rather than hidden and finished finely. This theme continues to details such as the movement display aperture on the midcase, as well as the crown protectors. The parts screwed on to the satinated midcase are all high polished. The 22mm wide lugs are furnished with a brown, alligator grained leather strap secured by a signed rose gold pin buckle. The large crown has an ergonomically minded trellised detail and is inlaid with a black ceramic disc with the brand logo engraved on it.

The display caseback is framed by a similarly concave rim, secured by six screws, with the brand name, precious metal hallmarks and serial number engraved in between.

The dome of the crystal is mirrored in the curved periphery of the enamel dial. In fact, the dial is two-part, with the flat central portion, stepped down from the rest of the case, created separately. This is a detail inherited from the Marine Clock no. 6. On the outer reaches, the grey Arabic minutes are printed in intervals of five. This is followed with a chemin de fer chapter of minutes with the full chapter of Roman hours lying further in. In the flat central portion is the brand and chronometre marks as well as the place of origin – Val-de-Travers, the home of the 18th century watchmaker as well as Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

The skeletonised hours and minutes hands are crafted from gold, while the seconds hand is created from titanium to make it lightweight. This hand features a brushed finish that distinguishes it.

While more recently Ferdinand Berthoud has re-worked the FB 2, exposing some of the mechanics of the gear train on the dial side, as the FB 2RE.2, it is a decidedly understated configuration true to the heritage that comes from pieces such as the Marine Clock no. 6.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Brand:	Ferdinand Berthoud
Model:	FB 2RE.2
Movement:	manual-winding calibre FB-RE.FC
Functions:	hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator on movement
Features:	fusée-and-chain mechanism, remontoir d'égalité, Grand Feu hand enamelled dial
Case material:	rose gold
Case diameter:	44mm
Case thickness:	14mm
Lug-to-lug:	51.5mm
Crystal:	sapphire front & back
Strap:	Ferdinand Berthoud brown alligator strap, Ferdinand Berthoud rose gold pin buckle
Lug width:	22 x 20mm
Year:	2020
Accompanying materials:	Ferdinand Berthoud -

Condition

This FB 2RE.2 is in excellent overall condition, appearing virtually unworn. It keeps excellent time and fucntions perfectly.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.

Ferdinand Berthoud

FB 2RE.2 | Rose Gold