Inspired by a number of historic jump hour watches from Audemars Piguet’s catalogue from the 1920s, this is an example of the reference 25723* in rose gold. At its heart lies the manually wound calibre 2865, devised by Renaud et Papi to be small enough to fit inside a women’s watch case. It became the mainstay of Audemars Piguet’s minute repeater references in the 1990s. The slider on the left flank of case releases the sonnerie which announces the hour, quarter and minutes through twin hammers striking a gong.

The result of four years of research into creating a minute repeater movement small enough to fit in a watch case designed with women in mind, the calibre 2865 was technically impressive. Developed by movement specialist Renaud et Papi, it was inspired by a historical calibre from the early 1920s. The movement was conceived first and given the history that informed it, it was only right that it should be fitted to a case with similar provenance.

This is because around the early 1920s, in addition to creating small minute repeater calibres, Audemars Piguet was championing the jump hour digital display. The brand had put these two innovations together in rectangular-shaped cases, such as the numbers 27’830 and 33’550, created through the 1920s. Almost exactly 70 years later, in 1992, the brand first created the reference 25723. There is a poetry to the way history reconvened in this sonnerie reference.

The family of subsequent references in different metals was created for five years, during which 257 examples are believed to have been produced.

This example, the 25723OR, features a rose gold case measuring 29mm wide and 31mm long. It stands just 9mm tall. In terms of architecture it has much in common with the historical watches – the vertically brushed, brancard-style bezel curves down in all aspects. The lugs, which curve down and narrow, feature a stepped detail that is polished. The lugs stand 22mm apart and are furnished with a fine-grained, cream coloured leather strap secured by a signed, rose gold pin buckle.

The flanks of the case are home to the integrated slider for the minute repeater complication on the left and the knurled crown on the right. Pushing the slider up releases the sonnerie with chimes indicating the hour, quarter and the minutes. The closed caseback is free-hand engraved with the serial number, the number within the reference series as well as the words ‘repetition minutes’. Also present here are the precious metal hallmarks.

The case’s Art Deco bent is lent flourish by the gold, Breguet-style Arabic minutes at intervals of five. This in fact references yet another historical watch, No. 38’765 with a similar applied minutes chapter. A black chemin de fer track of minutes runs on the dial’s periphery, just as it does in the rectangular, sector-style subsidiary seconds chapter at 6 o’clock.

The hours are indicated through the window below 12 o’clock. It is plied by a white wheel delineated by black printed Arabic hours, tying together the 1920s vision of modernity that guides this reference. However, the baroque and detailed cathedral-style minutes indicator arm balances this. The seconds indicator is a simple, black pointer.

While obscured from view, the manually wound calibre 2865 is finely decorated. It features finger-style bridges for the wheels of the going train, with the escape bridge topped with black-polished stainless-steel. The two hammers of the minute repeater are also similarly finished. The bevelled edges of the bridges feature anglage while on the top they are decorated with Côtes de Genève. The minute repeater gong runs the periphery of the movement. The mainspring bridge wears gold engraving detailing that the movement is adjusted to five positions while the bridge anchoring the crown wheel bears the jewel count (34).

The twin hammers strike the gong to create a clear sonnerie that reverberates out of the closed gold case. The sound signature is remarkably audible and distinct.

Seldom does one reference manage to capture both the essence of a storied past and the vision for the future in such a compelling way. The reference 25723, limited and short-lived, does this effortlessly and with a song in its heart.

Closer look

Brand:	Audemars Piguet
Model:	Complications ref. 25723OR
Movement:	manual-winding calibre 2865
Functions:	minute repeater, hour window, minutes, sub-seconds
Features:	closed caseback
Case material:	rose gold
Case diameter:	31mm x 29mm
Case thickness:	9mm
Lug-to-lug:	38.5mm
Crystal:	sapphire front
Strap:	burgundy saffiano strap from our own collection, Audemars Piguet rose gold pin buckle
Lug width:	22 x 16mm
Accompanying materials:	N/A

Condition

This Audemars Piguet Repetition Minutes Ref. 25723OR is in very good condition, with a nicely preserved case which shows minimal imperfections. The various brushed and polished surfaces remain present and sharp, as do the hallmarks and engravings. The dial is free from blemishes, whilst the hands show signs of natural ageing. The movement has excellent mechanical functionality.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.

Audemars Piguet

Complications Repetition Minutes | 25723OR | Rose Gold